Arthurs Ps to Tekapo

This section marked our 3rd and last, long significant stretch, the plan was to get from Arthurs Pass to Lake Tekapo in 12 days but we were striving for 10 days . On the last section, we ended up in Greymouth to resupply, we bought food to last approx 12 days so we have enough food for any safety days.

This section i think was one of the most visually interesting sections, with each pass we went over the landscape and flora changed. We were now getting into quite high country, less beech forest and more open tussocked flats with fantastic views over large basins and stunning blue lakes. New Zealand really can be anywhere in the world, we walked through landscapes that in one place strongly reminded us of parts of Tuscony, Italy; crossing another pass and the landscape remined us of parts of Austria. It keeps you entertained all the time along this section, nothing is the same for too long. Not even the huts! They all have their own character and brilliant settings, especially the huts on the Two Thumb Range. People can ride horses up the Two Thumb Range and the huts are used often by hunters so each hut has a pantry with a reasonal amount of tinned goods left behind. We even found butter! So try not to worry if your running out of rations.
Introducing the Spaniard and the Matagouri (meaning 'Face spiker' in Maori as they used to use the dried thorns for tattooing), both brothers in crime, they're all over the high country and they can hurt a lot. Expect scratches from the Matagouri and painful stabs from the Spaniard. The Matagouri is not as sharp so if you have to bash through, it is possible without bleeding. The Spaniard on the other hand, well just avoid it at all cost.

This 10 day section, quite a few people managed to cross the Rangitata this year and given the right conditions I think is quite managable. Before you reach the Rangitata, watch for any tributary rivers running milky, if they are you can bet the larger Rangitata will be unsuitable to cross. I would be A LOT more cautious of crossing the Rakaia, although not as wide as the Rangitata about 3 times as much water flows through it. If approaching from the North the Rakaia may look safe to cross, note that the final braid is the largest, deepest and fastest; we heard stories of people spending ages crossing only to find the last braid impassable and having to turn back. They are considered natural breaks in the trail as they can be too dangerous to cross when they are in flood so don't feel too bad if you do end up hitching.  If you do want to walk around the Rakaia its an extra 2 days walk down to the Rakaia gorge bridge and up the road to Glenrock station and an extra 4 days for the Rangitata.

Tip: If you find you have to hitch around The Rakaia to Glenrock Station. Nothing goes up the road to Glenrock except farmers and a school bus, which is not regular. The school bus driver however will pick people up on his morning trip at 6:00am up the road. If he has children in the bus then there is a good chance he won't.

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Day 111 -  Arthurs Pass to Hamilton hut.

The sun had decided to rock out and get rid of the clouds so we were feeling good and cruized along. We covered the 9 miles on road no problem; but we were actually pretty tired and we werent looking forward to going straight up a mountain in the Craigieburn Forest. But as it transpired the walk was pretty easy going even though our packs were stuffed full of food. We climbed up through tussock with great views of the valley.  It wasnt difficult walking through to Hamilton, the lack of rain meant the river was low and we could walk safely down the river's braids. Crossing an emergency 3 wire bridge brought us to the hut. Seeing Hamilton Hut blew us away with its huge veranda and warm enormous stone fireplace. We broke out the flour and started baking. Anders made some taste bread and then after some dissapointing couscous we broke out the almond flavour icing (marzipan) that we carried as a little treat. Wrap up some dough with marzipan, and you have your very own camping cinnabon!

Day 112 - Hamilton hut to Lake Georgina.
 Woken up by the heavy patter of rain on the roof,  we still had the sofa set up from last night so we stoked the fire and warmed our frozen feet. Whilst chowing down on our daily dose of oats and coffee we spotted a rabbit chilling outside the hut! Dinner! hopefully. Can we catch him? Obviously not! We walked  down onto the Harper River plain. As fun as walking along the river beds are, its very hard on the feet. On top of the foot pain and the anger from the slow pace, time drags on as you are stuck concentrating on every step. Once we were out though it was all road down to Lake Coleridge, 20 miles of metal road. We had decided that we would walk most of the way, camp at Lake Georgina, and walk the remainder of the miles in the morning before crossing the deadly Rakaia. Well everything went to plan. We walked along the road with some truely incredible views.

Day 113 - Lake Georgina to Glenrock Station.
A cold, cold morning with frost on the grass, we all had to sleep fully clothed as there was a cool draft blowing up through our tent. Even the meths took longer to boil the water needed for the morning porridge.  The view from the otherside of Lake Georgina was spectacular as the mountain range in the distance was reflecting off the still lake. We walked down the metal road until we got to Lake Coleridge where we met Micheal and Elna who had come from Lake Tekapo. They too were walking the along the Te Araroa.  We then walked  up to a flat plain above that offered super views of lake Coleridge and surounding landscape.  It wasn't long before we were walking into Lake Coleridge Village, picking black berries from the first bramble bush we could see. There is really nothing in the village except for an information board and a couple of locals.  The Rakaia was a milky baby blue and looked fine to cross.  Just as we were about to wade and then pack float our bags across the first braid we heard a voice from behind call out to us. A local guy called Patt O'Kieth, who had good knowledge of the river told us it was too dangerous to cross the river at this time. Pat generously gave us a lift all the way to Rakaia Gorge, Blackford Rd which was really helpful as its a 2 day de-tore around the river.  2 hours of waiting and holding our thumbs out we finally got a lift with a farmer called Willy (the only person going up the rd), he dropped us off and it was an hours walk to Glenrock!  The weather was coming in and so we wanted to get to the A-frame shelter. De-hydrated and tired we walked down through Glenrock station to the begining of the track, when a young man drove up and asked if we wanted a beer and a warm place to stay? How could we resist! We stayed at a home stay owned by a couple called Kate and Andy Chapman who owned the farm, Glenrock.

Day 114 - Glenrock Station to Comyns Hut.
We went to say thank you and bye to Kate and Andy. Kate wished us good luck and invited us to help ourselves to the apple and pear tree in her garden! The freshest, sweetest, most crisp apples put us in a fantastic mood as we began a long loooong climb up Turtons Saddle.  It was a tough climb. Sodden we stumbled into the A-frame hut for elevensies. It is a straightforward walk to Comyns hut. Comyns Hut is pretty awesome and we decided that we would stay, pretty much because of the 100 year storm outside and because Double Hut was MILES away. We became preoccupied getting dry and writing/drawing etc passing time when we realized the sun was shining through the windows. We walked outside. Not a cloud in the sky! crazy weather!<p>So we spent the rest of the day eating food, drinking tea, chopping up what little wood there was into little pieces for the next people and generally wasting time. There is also a mouse in the hut.

Day 115 - Comyns hut to Castleridge Station.
The plan for today was to get as far as possible. We were setting our sites on Castleridge Station and the Maori Lakes, past Double Hut AND Manuka Hut. As I just said, it was cold. We were all layered up and prepared for a standard morning walk up a mountain stream. Well it turns out that you cross Hakatere River over and over and over again. We were crossing the river every 5 minutes for at least 1 and a half hours. Our feet were numb.  We climbed up through tussock, our new favourite enemy, to the top of Clent Hills Saddle which in circumspeculation wasnt all that difficult and it offered pretty amazing views of the yellow valley. More sidling, which puts a massive strain on the uphill knee, across more tussock and scree slopes. Another great thing about reaching the saddle was the rest of the day was downhill. The going became easier once passing Double Hut as its flat to Manuka Hut; but then! We have to climb over a mountain. It wasnt really that bad though. Getting down was through more tussock and spaniard plants though (the spikiest, sharpest prickly plants) down to the second 4x4 for the day and the lake. We decided to fill up with lake water incase we couldnt find any more and we walked on to the main road. Incidentally we found another stream by Castleridge Station and we camped out by the road.