St.Arn to Harpers Pass

Our original intent for this section was to go all hardcore and try get from St. Arnaud to Arthurs Pass in 10 days without diverting to resupply. We had met a fellow TA tramper who had done it, we too though we could. We planned for 10 days but decided to take food that would last us for approximatly 14 days to be on the safe side. This is a lot of food, buying this much food in St. Arnaud would cost a complete fortune. Hitching somewhere else is definately a worthwhile venture. However St. Arnaud doesn't get much traffic either. St. Arnaud you have failed me again! There are a few options for resupply we found: Nelson or Blenheim, have large supermarkets and are quite far but not totally out of the question for hitching to. A more convenient town is Murchison, only ~30 mins hitch away, it has nice cafes, takeaways and a well priced 4 Square. We did all our shopping here for a good price. It also has a fair bit of traffic so hitching back to St. Arnaud was not that difficult. Tip: To get from St. Arnaud to Murchison and back again in one day, leave early and/or make friends with fellow campers in the DOC campsite.

This section took us through the Nelson Lakes National Park, which was a mixture of pleasant walks through beech forest and around perfect crystal blue lakes coupled with bits of rocky climbs giving us some stunning views down river valleys. Things to watch out for: At the time of year we were here the beech trees had a black sort of fungus on some of them that secretes a sweet nectar that wasps love! So beware, we had quite a few run ins with wasps here. Between all of us we managed to collect 10 wasp stings. If you're sensitive to that kind of stuff, carry an epipen!

The huts in this park are massive and very popular and hence (appart from the Queen Charlotte Track) probably the most busy section we found. Not that that is a bad thing, it was actually a very nice change having lots of people to talk to and share stories.

As i said our original plan to complete this section in 10 days did not actually come to pass. Weather in this region is very changeable and even in summer time we had snow up on the Waiau Pass. We waited 2 days in Blue Lake Hut for the rain to pass and then it snowed! Not being prepared for winter conditions we were forced to change our plans (as were now low on food) and turn back north and head toward Murchison. Although we were very disappointed to miss the Waiau Pass, which apparently has some of the best views on the whole Te Araroa trail, we did get to see parts of the park that other TA trampers didnt, like the Tiraumea Valley, which not as spectacular as the Waiau Pass, was still very very awesome.
So after 7 days we were back where we started. Murchison. But that's ok, we really liked this place. Everything you need and more. So now that we had restocked, we were quite aways from Windy Point, the start of the Harper Pass track. We hitched a ride there and continued on for another 4 days to Aikens.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Day 99 - St. Arnaud to John Tait Hut
We awoke at 06.30 to the sound of heavy heavy rain on the tents. Just wonderful. We packed our bags inside the tents, moaning and grumbling about the rain the whole time, then ran to the shelter to make tea and porridge, then back to pack up the tents. We weren't exactly eager to get going, so we waited until the rain subsided a little before finally doning ponchos and heading off on our 10 days tramp to Arthurs Pass at about 10ish. We were following the easy and well marked Lakehead Track that would take us to the Lakehead Hut where we were planning on having lunch. Although in fine weather the track is very very easy, flat too. In heavy rain streams had washed over the track in a few places. Before too long we got to Lakehead Hut and dove headfirst into peanut butter and plum jam on crackers.  Our original plan for the day was to reach the Upper Travers Hut (just before the Travers Saddle) but because of our late start to the day we changed our plans and set aim on only reaching John Tait Hut. It took 4 hours of pleasant but wet walking through beech forest along the Travers River to reach it. There were loads of people in the hut when we got there, which was abnormal for us, every hut we had stayed in so far along Te Araroa we had only shared with 1-2 people. But it was a nice change actually having lots of different people to talk to. Each with their own stories and experiences and plans. As the evening progressed, everyone started making dinner and sitting round the table and chatted. When it came to us and our story, everyone gathered round as we told our tale and showed on the maps where we had been and where we were going. That was really nice.

  

Day 100! - John Tait Hut  to West Sabine Hut
There were plenty of people in the hut so we made ourselves ready as quietly as possible and got a fire going to warm everyone up. We were amazed to walk outside and find that the decking was covered with ice, giving you a feel of how cold it was! But we didnt let that bug us and we walked on up to Upper Travers Hut. It WAS beautiful here and we took off our boots and basked in the sun for a good 30mins before starting out again. From Upper Travers the trail was quite mellow with a nice shallow climb up an alpine valley but then to punish us for thinking this was too easy the trail turned sharply to the right, straight up the boulders, all the way to the top. This was quite a hard climb with 10 days worth of food still in our packs. But we recovered quickly at the top, helped by outstanding views of the surrounding mountains. Not a cloud in sight for lunch on day 100! We decided right then and there that beer was a lunch thing and not to be saved for the hut. The cans of Speights Gold Medal ale came out of our packs and straight into the tarn. 15 minutes later we were enjoying a nice cold beer at the top of a mountain with a well deserved lunch. This day is awesome. Fueled by beer we were ready for the decent and made easy work of the downhill although it is ridiculously steep. More amazing views though before they were swallowed by the beech forest below. Walking along the Sabine River was pretty casual and a plesant walk through suprisingly wasp free forest to a bridge. The short bridge spanned a chasm over the Sabine River and the drop was huge. So awesome, we stood in awe of it for a short time before carrying on the fairly mundane track to West Sabine Hut. After shifting gears to leisure time we relaxed and talked to the other trampers. We had cooked up a storm and had made bread and spagetti and all sorts of deliciousness before even starting on the Day 100 Cake . By candle light we shared the cake and celebrated the end of Day 100 for TastyTrek, after checking for possums around the hut of course.

Day 101 - West Sabine Hut to Blue Lake Hut
We had heard that the weather was not going to be good today so again we had to change our plans. We had intended to go over the Waiau Pass today, supposably a Te Araroa highlight and only recommened in fine weather, but due to the weather we set our goals on only reaching Blue Lake Hut only 3 hours away at the bottom of the pass. We left the hut at midday, the track to Blue Lake Hut was (again) pretty wet in places and although a short journey we found it actually quite exhausting. Possibly due to the very late start or possibly due to the ENORMOUS breakfast. Along the way we stopped to see some awesome waterfalls and caves (complete with a stone circle cooking area! Clearly the cave had been used as a makeshift shelter). Blue Lake Hut was nice with 16 bunks and plenty of room. At the hut were several familiar faces we knew from the days before. We co-inhadited the hut and milled around, each of us doing our own thing. We had heard that the Blue Lake was amazing, and that apparently it is the purest lake in the world...according to the kiwis. The lake was indeed very blue! It became apparent there were no fish in it just by looking at it, it was SO clear. The rest of the evening we all sat around telling stories and chatting with cups of soups and teas and coffees and nibbling biscuits. It was a nice, warm, friendly atmosphere. Just a bunch of guys hanging out at 1200m in a hut. We were all really looking forward to crossing the Waiau Pass tomorrow, that night we went to sleep praying for clear skies.  

Day 102 - Blue Lake Hut weather break day
We got up early and it was pouring with rain, so we waited for a short time to see if the weather would get better and hopefully clear. Unfortunately the rain didn't clear for a long time so we made a group decision to wait in the hut and go over the pass the next day as we really want to have great views when we go over. The Waiau Pass is a Te Araroa high light and we really wanted good weather. So in the mean time we opted for a day walk. We set off with Hendrik (a friendly german tramper) when the sun had slightly come out. We tramped back down the track towards West Sabine Hut. We then turned West and headed up a steep climb towards the waterfall that was pouring out of the Mahanga Range. The views of the West Sabine river valley as we got higher and higher were amazing. Our initial plan was to be slightly recklace and climb into a cave above the waterfall; however it was obviously too dangerous, so we didn't do it. Although once at the top we found we could actually walk up next to the waterfall as a manageable gradient. The pass followed the river up to the long grass and shrub flat plains above. We got some BEAUTIFUL views of the river valley below. The long grass made it difficult to see the smaller hidden rivers, so we slipped, tripped and stubbled South to see if we could get a view of Blue Lake from above, unsuprisingly the view was again stunning. After chilling and taking in the awesomeness we slidled South again and actually found some orange markers! Turns out we had stumbled on to the Moss Pass track which went West over to different huts. We followed the track down a stream which took us all the way back to the hut. A great day walk!

Day 103 - Blue Lake to the bottom of the Waiau Pass then back to West Sabine Hut
Up really early as it was going to be a big day getting to Carroline Bivy over the Pass. It was 7 degrees, our coldest morning so far! Infact it was snowing! It was freezing in the hut which made it really difficult to get out of our cozy warm sleeping bags. Anders forced himself up and got the fire going to boil some water for morning tea and porridge. We set off towards the Pass in good spirits as it was still early and we thought the sun would burn off the snow when it came over the East mountain range. We had to sidle along the West side of Lake Constance, up scree first. Everything had a thin layer of snow on it so it was slow going as everything was slippery. We continued with carefull placement of our boots; but after about 45 minutes all our feet were cold and wet from the long snow tipped grass and ice cold streams we had to climb down. The sun did come over the East mountain range, before being englufed by a thick snow cloud that came from the South. From the beach next to Lake Constance we could see the Southerly winds had brought the snow and it was all being deposited on the Waiau Pass and onwards further south. Towards the North it was clear skies and sunshine, so it seemed like all the snow was being dropped right where we were trying to get to. After a group decision we decided it wouldn't be clever to climb up the Pass and down the really steep windward side in snowfall. We had heard the other side of the Pass was tricky even in good weather.

We didn't want to go back the same way we came so we thought it would be a good idea to walk along the Eastern side of Lake Constance along the Slate beach. It was easy going along the slate, hopping from one boulder to the other, until the last 100 meters, which turned from nice beech wlking to vertical rock climbing!  With heavy packs we climbed along the rock face above the ice cold Lake Constance. Falling in wasn't an option. It took us an hour to climb 100m's with numb fingers and toes. It wasn't so bad at first but closer to the end it got really tricky. DM being the weakest climber was finding it very tricky as his front pack was obscuring his climb as it was really full. So at 1300 meters on a cliff face, he managed to take off his bag, balance it with one foot, take off his clothes and re-pack his bag again. He dropped his bag into the lake and dived into the cold, cold lake with his boots still on and swam back to the slate shore with his pack floating infront of him. After that it was uncontrolable shivering while he dried himself and put his clothes back on. We quickly set off back to the hut where we had some lunch and got dry and warm. Instead of waiting another day we wanted to get moving, so we decided to go back to West Sabine Hut, then back to Murchison to re supply and then hitch to Harpers Pass, from there go to Arthers Pass.

Day 104 - West Sabine Hut to Tiraumea Hut
Today we blazed along the river track as we had a long way to go. We were suprisingly energised and almost ran a lot of the way, only stopping for short breaks of water and 'bit o' gorp' (scroggin). The landscape was completely different to that up at Blue Lake. We had gin clear water running to our left and silver beach trees above our heads, while the forest floor was covered in lime green moss. So cool! We walked up to Lake Rotoroa and then across a braided river up to D'Urgville Hut. There we had lunch, before pushing on to the next hut, Tiraumea hut which was 5 hours away. It was a 30 minute walk to the bottom of the saddle we had to tramp over, it was only 300 meters up and then flat until the hut. Easy! ... We still feel our hearts pumping in our heads after a steep climb. For the rest of the 3 hours it was relativily flat with a few more stream crossings. Tiraumea hut was a nice small 6 bunk but with a savage fire place that got the hut hot quick. We had to open the door to let cool air in. When the sun went down and we had eaten dinner we set some traps for possum and then went looking for some with large sticks. Unfortunately the only possum we saw was small and too high to bash. DM threw a his stick only scaring it further out of view. We went back to the hut and Anders made some oat cookies that we dipped in spare jam and chocolate. Delicious!

Day 105 - Tiraumea Hut  to Murchison
We had a large porridge in the morning and got going. In the first 5 minutes our feet were wet, we had to cross 2 rivers and there were not many rocks to hop on. We had to follow the river the whole way today, criss crossing the river constantly. It was alot of fun, walking over fallen trees and rock hopping to the other side of the river. Eventually we got fed up of slipping on rocks and getting our boots wet and taking 5 minutes to cross, so we just waded and walked through the river. The track disappeared every now and then, due to landslides that blocked our path due to heavy rain fall in December which caused severe river flooding. On the other hand the flood took all of the green didymo off the rocks so they were less slippery when hopping on them. We followed the river for several hours though the lush valley until eventually the valley opened up and the track turned onto the cow fields. After about 30 more minutes we were on tar-mac road which meant it was time to stop for lunch. Just as we finished lunch we managed to get a short lift into Murchison. (We had to get there early to get food and sort out all the other objectives we needed to do, like blogs!) Lucky we got that lift because the road was very empty. In Murchison we went to Kiwi farm which was a camp site and petting zoo! Alright, but the pigs better not disturb our night sleep.